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Digital Jacquard Design, by Julie Holyoke
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For centuries, the creation of Jacquard cloth required the collaborative efforts of teams of designers and technicians working on vastly complex equipment. In the past three decades, developments in loom technology and CAD systems have made it possible for a single individual to design and produce this most challenging class of textiles.
Digital Jacquard Design presents a comprehensive introduction to the creation of weave patterning in the era of digitally piloted looms. It offers both aesthetic and technical training for students of figured weaving, covering the Jacquard medium in fantastic breadth and depth. The book is an essential guide for all who create figured textiles with modern materials and tools, and provides the reader with a 'digital' key to access and employ the great textile traditions of the past.
Digital Jacquard Design examines the design process from end to end, progressing from visual analysis, sample analysis and weave-drafting methods, to figuring techniques and the selection and building of weaves. It provides a guide to converting traditional drafts to digital polychrome format, a design terminology and a weave glossary. The book concludes with a rich set of case studies to demonstrate ingenious and effective weave and design solutions.
- Sales Rank: #1269047 in Books
- Published on: 2013-12-05
- Released on: 2013-12-05
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 12.11" h x .89" w x 8.61" l, 2.85 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 248 pages
Review
“[T]his book is an excellent resource for students of jacquard, but more than that, it is a compilation of inspiration for any artist. With the resurgence of interest in making cloth, this book will surely guide many non-weavers through this fascinating terrain.” ―Bhakti Ziek, SurfaceDesign.org
“Primarily a technical text, this volume by educator/practitioner Holyoke explores both the aesthetic and the functional in designing woven jacquard fabrics. Visually strong support images are pulled from both contemporary and historic textiles; with only a few exceptions these are shown at real size or in detail, providing clarity on weave structure and yarn color combinations. This volume would make a strong textbook for advanced weaving courses. It is also an important reference text for weaving studios. Summing Up: Essential. Upper-level undergraduates through professionals/practitioners.” ―L. L. Kriner, Berea College
About the Author
Julie Holyoke is affiliated with the Lisio Foundation, Florence, Italy. A pioneer in the use of digital technologies for wovens, she has worked for three decades as an educator at universities and mills in Italy and beyond, while designing interiors and fashion textiles for both industrial and handwoven productions.
Most helpful customer reviews
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
A must have reference book with abundant colour plates and illustrations.
By Line Dufour
It is the book I've been waiting for to help me understand the construction and design of jacquard woven textiles. A well written reference book with precise, articulate, analysis and abundantly illustrated, rich luscious colour plates, it was hard to put this book down. This is no mere coffee table book. It could very well be considered a text book for the serious post secondary textile student, as will enlighten any fibre enthusiast - whether amateur or professional. It's one of the must have books for any lover of textiles - designer, historian, scientist, anthropologist or weaver. The chapter on fabric analysis was clear with helpful instructions. Explanations of woven structures and assorted looms is woven through it. It clarifies the process of digital jacquard and industrial weaving. The considerations that must be addressed when designing such textiles is aptly outlined.The photographs of the assorted textiles - both historical and contemporary, such as damasks, compound weave structures, figured velvets, double weave, and lampas for instance are masterfully photographed. The jacquard woven textiles of many well known and respected fibre artists and designers are featured. Hardly a page lacks an illustration and/or photograph which makes it more compelling and enthralling. I loved this book and I know I will go back to it over and over again!
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
A Brilliant Book for the Modern Textile Designer
By Amazon Customer
This is a brilliant book about digital jacquard design. It discusses the history of Jacquard and the revolutionary digital jacquard loom, which allows each thread to be controlled on it's own. Hugely innovative technology! The author goes into great detail about how to create a beautiful well-structured design and aesthetics of repeat. With excellent guidance and inspiration on the subject.
I myself am a textile designer and work on these digital looms. It is interesting to note that with the technology and freedom of these digital jacquard looms knowledge of structure is lost, because you can weave and program anything now. A structure on a digital loom is simply either a black or white pixel, up or down, 010101... It’s easy to experiment. But the understanding of structure is no longer in the education system of textile design, what Julie is preserving is this incredibly vast knowledge of visual and technical structure.
This book is a necessary tool for the modern textile designer. We have the digital jacquard loom, which can do anything and now we have this incredible book by Julie Holyoke, which explains Jacquard so brilliantly. She is preserving textile history yet encouraging innovation and experimentation.
A must have for every weavers bench!!
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Beautiful and well executed
By emelia Haglund
Julie Holyoke is the first to really attack the understanding of designing figured textiles. It is a beautifully crafted book with lovely images and examples and well as detailed and researched chapters that explore all the nuances of the field. As a jacquard weaver and textile instructor it will be invaluable to my process and that of my students. I am relieved to finally have a text available to illustrate the work I do and that allows me to reference the works to come.
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